Saint Peter in a keyhole
Not far from the complex of Sant'Anselmo, high on the Aventine Hill, via di Santa Sabina opens onto the quiet Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta. Bordered by a high wall, decorated with neoclassical obelisks and military trophies, it leads to a famous and fascinating broad wooden door.
Known affectionately by Romans as the "hole of Rome" (Il buco di Roma) its abiding attraction draws queues of visitors to this peaceable "out of the way" spot. No key is required: it is sufficient to put an open eye to the keyhole, and focus. With kaleidoscope charm, a vision of St Peter's dome perfectly in perspective, framed by the tops of trees in the foreground, lined up perfectly with the garden, opens up. Often wrapped in a thin mysterious mist, seems to stand at the end of the garden path, just beyond the door. No one seems to be able to say with certainty whether this was a beautifully planned peepshow, or just a lucky coincidence.
Originally, the area was the site of a fortified Palace belonging to Alberico II. In 939 it became a Benedictine monastery run by the abbot Oddone of Cluny. In the Twelfth Century, it passed into the hands of the Knights Templar the famous warrior monks, who in 1312, were violently suppressed by Pope Clement V.
The monastery then became the seat of a priory belonging to the Gerosolimitani (known as The Knights Hospitaller). In the second half of the 1400's, Pope Paul II granted the monastery to the Sovereign Military Order of Malta,
The numerous owners the building has had during its varied history, correspond to the changes in its structure. At the end of the Sixteen Hundreds, CardinalBenedict Pamphilj even transformed it into a coffee house which, for a spell, became a popular haunt of artists.
The elegant building seen today is a small church known as Santa Maria del Priorato. It is the 18th-century handiwork of the famous architect and engraver Giovanni Battista Piranesi, also known for his romantic etchings depicting the city and his enigmatic and dark series of imaginary prisons (Carceri d'Invenzione).
The architectural motifs in the building evoke ships and the sea, inspired by the longstanding tradition of the Aventine Hill being compared to a ship. The obelisks in the square represent masts, whilst the shrubbery and labyrinth of gardens beyond the door, denotes the ship's ropes. The design also incorporates many esoteric and Masonic symbols. Piranesi was buried at the Priory after his death in 1778.
Beyond the magical door and its bewitching view, the complex holds the church of Santa Maria del Priorato, also known as Santa Maria Aventina, and a Villa, whose rooms are filled with portraits and valuable paintings.
Here is something incredible to ponder as you peek though the key hole: you are looking through three countries:
you are standing on the independent territory of the Sovereign Order of the Knights of Malta, gazing across Rome (Italy), and looking at St Peter’s Dome which is inside the Vatican.Where else can you do that?
All of this, of course, raises the question: what exactly is the Sovereign Military Order of Malta? They are better known as the Knights of Malta and their full name is the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta. They are what is left of the former monastic order of the Knights Hospitaller which were created during the Crusades to protect pilgrims in the Holy Land. They used to control Malta until they were expelled by Napoleon in 1798.
They are a very unique entity in the world. They claim to be a sovereign power and have diplomatic relations with over 100 countries and international organizations. Yet, they have no territory. They also have permanent observer status at the United Nations similar to that of Palestine, the difference being that Palestine, however you define it, is a place. The SMOM has extraterritorial jurisdiction over this location and another building near the Spanish Steps in Rome. The buildings are Italian soil, but the SMOM has authority over it as if it were the embassy of a foreign country. Some people think they are an independent country like the Vatican, but they are not.
The famous keyhole is located here:
RECAP and TIPS: be sure to bring a camera and take photos of St Peter’s Dome through the keyhole, and combine the visit to Aventine Hill at the Key Hole with the famous Orange Garden (Giardino degli Aranci) and the colorful Rose Garden in May-June. Everything is for free!
