See Caravaggio for free
Did you know that you can see different masterpieces of Caravaggio in three different Church in Rome for free? Well, Rome is an amazing city even for that reason, art is everywhere and you can have access to it very easily.
But who was Caravaggio? For sure a fascinating, uncommon genius. His real name was Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio (29 September 1571 in Caravaggio – 18 July 1610) and he was active in Rome, Naples, Malta, and Sicily between 1592 and 1610. His paintings, which combine a realistic observation of the human state, both physical and emotional, with a dramatic use of lighting, had a formative influence on Baroque painting.
Caravaggio trained as a painter in Milan under Simone Peterzano who had himself trained under Titian.
Thereafter he never lacked commissions or patrons, yet he handled his success poorly. He was jailed on several occasions, vandalized his own apartment, and ultimately had a death sentence pronounced against him by the Pope after killing a young man, possibly unintentionally, on May 29, 1606.
An early published notice on him, dating from 1604 and describing his lifestyle three years previously, recounts that "after a fortnight's work he will swagger about for a month or two with a sword at his side and a servant following him, from one ball-court to the next, ever ready to engage in a fight or an argument, so that it is most awkward to get along with him”. In 1606 he killed a young man in a brawl and fled from Rome with a price on his head. He was involved in a brawl in Malta in 1608, and another in Naples in 1609, possibly a deliberate attempt on his life by unidentified enemies. This encounter left him severely injured. A year later, at the age of 38, he died under mysterious circumstances in Porto Ercole in Tuscany, reportedly from a fever while on his way to Rome to receive a pardon.
Where can you see Caravaggio for free?
Sant’ Agostino Church Piazza di Sant’ Agostino, 9. Orario 07:30 - 12:00; 16:00 - 19:30
The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco ( Isaia the prophet). For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” di Jacopo Sansovino near the door as you leave for luck.
San Luigi dei Francesi Piazza di S. Luigi de' Francesi, mon-fri 9:30am 1:00pm, 2:30pm-6:30pm, sat. 9:30am 12:30pm, 2:30pm-6:30pm, sun 11:30am 1:00pm, 2:30pm-6:30pm,
In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.
Santa Maria Del Popolo Piazza Del Popolo12, mon-thu 7:15am 12:30pm, 4:00pm-7:00pm, frid-sat 7:30am - 7:00pm, sun closed.
This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.
Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM – 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.
And if I want to pay?
Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park called Villa Borghese. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €11 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time. www.galleriaborghese.it/eng/galleriaBorghese.html
Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €15. en.museicapitolini.org
Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. But still, even with the pass for the Galleria Borghese you need to book online your ticket at least one day in advance. Infact on the official website there is written “Ticket reservations are required for all visitors. Visitors who plan to use a Roma Pass and tour guides must book by phone calling +39 06 32810 and picked up at the ticket office of the museum 30 minutes before the opening hour”. The pass costs €34. Link alla mia pagina di Roma pass
Recap: you can see Caravaggio for free in 3 different churches, Sant’ Agostino, San Luigi dei Francesi and Santa Maria Del Popolo.
